The following was taken from The Times of Central Asia (but note: this used to be identical to the text at the Lonely Planet ):

“Uzbekistan, in the ancient cradle between the Amu-Darya and Syr-Darya rivers, is the most historically fascinating of the Central Asian republics. Within it are some of the oldest towns in the world, some of the Silk Road's main centres and most of the region's architectural splendours. Uzbekistan occupies the heartland of Central Asia, sharing a border with all the other 'Stans', which is one of the reasons why it considers itself the most important of the former Soviet Central Asian republics, and why it is increasingly fulfilling the role of regional gendarme.

The hell of it is, the republic with arguably the most to offer has the worst attitude towards visitors. Politically the old USSR is alive and kicking here…

Environment: To describe Uzbekistan as an environmental planning disaster would be understating things. Several programmes put in place in the Soviet era are still wreaking havoc on the country. In the 1960s, Soviet planners set out to increase Uzbekistan's cotton production through a system of vastly increased irrigation, which meant tapping the rivers flowing into the Aral Sea, in the north of the country. As a result, the sea has lost 75% of its volume and its area has reduced by half. The area's fishing industry has been destroyed, the climate has been perverted (there are four times as many rainless days as there were in the 1950s) and the resulting salination of soil and water as well as chemical residues from cotton farming have caused serious health problems in the population. Native flora and fauna have also been devastated. Irrigation projects in the steppes of Uzbekistan have also degraded the soil, polluted the water, and caused large-scale erosion, aridity and salinity.

Sights: Some of the world's most audacious and beautiful examples of Islamic religious buildings are to be found in Uzbekistan's Bukhara, Khiva and, especially, Samarkand. Most of the monumental mosques, minarets, mausolea and monasteries date from the time of the Timurids, great appreciators of glitzy, glazed goth-ish glories. Uzbekistan's folk art has tended towards the portable - clothes, arms, jewellery, weaving, embroidery and rugs - in tune with semi-nomadic living. Islam prohibits the depiction of the living, so traditional arts developed in the form of calligraphy, combining Islamic script with arabesques, and the carving of doors and screens. Painting was revived under the Soviets and became a curious hybrid of socialist realism and mock traditionalism – try smiling Ukbeks at a teahouse with futuristic chimneys thrusting skywards in the background.

Food: Central Asian food resembles that of the Middle East or the Mediterranean in its use of rice, savoury seasonings, vegetables and legumes, yoghurt and grilled meats. In northern Uzbekistan meals often consist of pilafs, kebabs, noodles and pasta, stews, elaborate breads and pastries. Subtle seasonings and fancy sweets distinguish the cuisine of southern Uzbekistan. Tea is ubiquitous, usually served without milk. Despite their Muslim heritage, most Uzbekis drink alcohol, at least with guests. If you don't enjoy hard booze (commonly vodka), make your excuses early.”

A highly recommended source for a more businesslike assessment of Uzbekistan is the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development’s Country site.

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