If you visit Kaliningrad, a.k.a. Königsberg, to see something historical, you’re in for a most surrealist experience.

You might expect glimpses of the past:

However, your guide will show you an empty field, with just the ruins of an old church, and then explain: “Here is where “X” used to be, turn left and you’ll see where “Y” used to be, and behind you is where “Z” used to be”. Thing is, the town suffered heavily in 1945, and any old buildings left halfway standing where then deliberately blown up.

This is it: the centre of Königsberg (the church is currently being restored, though).

In its place you now have the saddest collection of Soviet-style prefabs, which are rapidly rotting away. Kaliningrad used to be a “closed” military area, which meant that the locals had even less voice than usual when it came to environmental protection, or even prettification of the place.

When asked about their standard of living, the people here will grin slyly and say something about Poland being a lot closer than St. Petersburg. Interpret that any which way you want...

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